Machu Picchu

We got really lucky in Cusco and found a trip to Machu Picchu the first afternoon, yay for low season. We did a four day, three night ¨jungle trek¨. The first day we were driven to the top of a mountain at about 4,300 meters nestled in the fog. We then put on helmets and gloves and mounted our not so great mountain bikes. We rode down a steep mountain road and it was really fun! Shannon, much to our surprise, loved riding super fast down the mountain and kept leaving Kevin behind (until she crashed that is). The first 45 kilometers were paved and nice, not too much traffic. The worst parts were the water that ran over the road which we had to ride through numerous times. We stopped and ate lunch and then continued on a really crappy road. They were doing road construction and it was one lane dirt, gravel, and rocks. We were riding along when a car came behind us and started honking to pass. Shannon tried to get over to the side and rode into some rocks. In slow motion, her bike pitched forward and she hung suspended in the air for what seemed like an eternity before flying over the handle bars, not letting go until the bike crashed on top of her. Needless to say she was quite cut up and bleeding all over. We had to wait for the guide and then the van that was following us to clean her up. All that they had was alcohol which the guide poured over her wounds. Someone else had baby wipes so she was able to clean herself up and stop the bleeding. She ripped her shorts and was covered in cuts and bruises on her left side but luckily nothing more serious happened. The whole bike ride was 65 kilometers but we probably only went about 60 and then rode the last few kms in the car as Shannon was in no shape to bike more. We then drove to the ever so exciting town of Santa María which was dusty and ugly. We stayed there and ate dinner and rested our weary bones.

Day two was the best day (besides Machu Picchu of course) and we hiked 22 kms through the mountains. It rained the first half but we walked through beautiful scenery with breathtaking views of the valley below. We walked on parts of the Inka Trail and actually climbed pretty high. Much of the trail was right along the side of a cliff and our guide acutually fell off, luckily not too far but it was a little scary. We stopped at a hotspring pool towards the end of the day and relaxed for a little while before the uphill climb to the town of Santa Teresa. The town is really growing due to the influx of tourism and most of the streets were paved or in the process of being paved and a lot of things were being built. The town itself was in a beautiful setting with snowcapped peaks on one side and a valley and more awesome mountains on the other. We spent the night there in a small hostal.

Day three started with a terrible hike along a dirt road in the hot sun surrounded by nothing but dust and rocks. We walked passed two impressive waterfalls (impressive until we found out they were manmade) to hidroelectrica where they are still working on a giant hydroelectric plant (hence the waterfalls). From there we walked along train tracks to the town of Aguas Calientes. The trail was surrounded by lush forest and stunning mountains so it was a nicer walk. After about 18 kms of walking, we arrived in Aguas Calientes which is a town built entirely for tourism as it is at the base of Machu Picchu and the only place to stay. It was actually pretty nice but all restuarants and hotels. We stayed the night there before our climb to Machu Picchu.

Day four started at 4:00 AM with a walk to the bridge at the base of the stairs to Machu Picchu. We then climbed over 3,000 stairs to get to the actual ruins. Only one person beat us up and we made it in about 35 minutes so we were pretty happy with ourselves (we did knock a few people off the mountain in our rush up but not too many). We had a tour of the ruins and then climbed Waynapicchu (more stairs) above the ruins. We would have had a great view if it hadn´t been so cloudy. A couple of times the clouds parted and we caught glimpes of the ruins. It was a pretty steep climb and at parts it seemed inevitable that we would fall down the steep, narrow stairs and be lost forever. We also walked up to the ¨sun gate¨ where we had a magnificent view of the ruins below us. It is really impressive how big (area wise) they are and how well made they are. Walking through them is impressive but seeing the whole thing from above is just incredible. The actual site is also amazing as it is on a fairly high mountain (2,400 meters) surrounded by even higher jagged mountains. It was incredibly beautiful. We then decided to walk back down the stairs as we decided taking a bus was for weanies. We had a few hours to kill before our train so we met up with some of the people in our group for some much needed food after hours of hiking.

We had a million problems with our guide which put a little bit of a damper on the trip. Needless to say, there are tons of tourist agencies and as a result quality begins to suffer. Our guide was knowledgeable but not very friendly and never explained anything to us (like the plans for the day) unless we specifically asked him. By the end of the trip everyone was pretty unhappy with him and ready to mutiny. We also had problems with the tour agency not sending our tickets for Machu Picchu or the train back. We finally got our tickets around 9:00 P.M. the night before we went up (of course we wanted to go to bed by 8:00 to get up at 3:30). This happened to most of the people in our group and we had all gone through different agencies (even one recommended by lonely planet). We never actually got our train tickets. Our guide told us to meet him the afternoon when we got back from the ruins to get them. They still were not there and he told us to come back later and worse case scenario we would go to the train station with our passports and they could look them up. What he did not tell us was that he was leaving in half an hour back to Cusco so he wasn´t there when we went back and nobody could help us. Luckily they were very helpful at the train station but it just made us resent our guide even more. He also decided to take only a third of our group on the tour of the actual ruins and sent the rest of us with another guide and even more people and our group ended up having 15 and his 5...we really loved him by the end.

All in all it was a good trip. We had a really good group to make up for our guide and we had a lot of fun. Machu Picchu is so amazing and definitely worth the trip!

The End of Ecuador

So we´ve done a lot since we last wrote. We went to the not so exciting town of Latacunga where we met our friends Dan and Emily and celebrated Kev´s birthday with some pizza and beer. After perusing the impressive (and really cheap) Saturday market, we headed to the tiny indigenous village of Quilotoa. It is located at the top of an extinct volcano and there is a beautiful green lake in the crater. The elevation is approximately 4,000 meters and it was super cold. So cold that we had to have a fire in the little stove in our room in order to not freeze to death! It was nice to be cold after two years of summer. We stayed at a little family owned hostal that was run by a Quichua family. It was interesting talking to them and learning a little about their customs. Spanish is their second language which sometimes made communicating difficult as we spoke better Spanish than some of the people. We hiked part-way around the lake with Dan and Emily and went to the even tinier village of Ponce where they live. We met a lot of people and they were all so nice and polite. The little kids all shook our hands, something we never saw in Honduras. It was nice to see a totally different kind of Ecuador and get some nice hiking in.

From Quilotoa we went to Baños, a town in southern Ecuador. It is a very touristy town with the main attractions being hotsprings and outdoor adventures like rafting, bike riding, and hiking. We rented bikes and rode down ¨la ruta de las cascadas¨. It was mostly downhill much to Shannon´s delight since every uphill almost killed her. We rode about 12 miles past lots of waterfalls and even took a cable car across a canyon and over a waterfall. We ended our ride in Río Verde at Cascada Pailón del Diablo. We hiked down to the impressive waterfall which we could view from a series of balconies built into the cliff. We were close enough to get wet and were able to walk behind it after climbing/crawling through a crack in the cliff. It was pretty cool.

We then headed to the colonial city of Cuenca where we checked out all the old churches and buildings. At this point we have been to so many colonial towns that they all start to look the same so we didn´t spend much time in Cuenca. One of the best parts was the bus ride to Cuenca. We rode right through the middle of the Andes and it was beautiful! The mountains were so tall and the valleys so deep. Everything was very green and the mountains were covered with farms that made them look like patchwork quilts. It was a breathtaking journey and we even saw a beautiful sunset over the mountains.

After Cuenca, we headed to Perú. It took us a day and countless buses and cabs just to get to the border. It was one of the most complicated borders as we had to get off the bus about 4 kilometers outside of town and the actual border to go through customs. The bus driver forgot to let us off and we ended up having to go back once we got to town (after Shannon yelled at him he let us go back for free). We then had to take a taxi to the border and another to the Peruvian customs located 4 kms on the other side. It was ridiculous. We actually ended up getting so frustrated at slow, not so friendly people that we got out of a bus refusing to pay because the driver was so slow and wouldn´t tell us how much it cost or whether we would make it to the next town in time to catch our next bus. Shannon kind of lost it and yelled at him too (Latin America is wearing on us). We finally made it to our bus right before it left and spent 21 hours on it to get to Lima. We then spent another 21 hours on a bus to Cusco. It was a really long three days but at least the buses were comfortable and we made it in one piece! The drive through all of northwestern Perú was desert, desert, and more desert. We went through lots of mountains from Lima to Cusco but they were not nearly as green and beautiful as the ones in Ecuador.

Galápagos

We spent nine days in Las Islas Galápagos and it was amazing. Words really cannot describe all we saw and did. We went to nine different islands and a couple of islets and saw almost all of the animals that are there at this time. It was surprisingly cold (really windy) and the water was freezing (20 degrees C, think California water). We spent seven days on a sailboat and two days on the main island, Santa Cruz. The animals are not at all afraid of people and we could walk right up to them and they would either ignore us or just look at us. Baby sea lions would come up to us and try to touch us. We saw many different types of birds including frigates with their red pouches puffed up, blue footed boobies doing mating dances, baby albatrosses that are super fat and fluffy, giant pelicans, and so many others. Many of the birds had eggs and babies and they didn´t even blink an eye as we walked right up to them. It was awesome! We did a lot of snorkeling (Shannon had to wear two wetsuits and was still freezing) and got to swim with sea lions! They are so playful and would swim so close to us they almost touched us. They imitated our movements and did flips and jumps. Kevin really enjoyed this and spent extra time swimming with them (until the guide made him get out because a large male was swiftly approaching). The sea lions liked Kevin so much that they followed him out of the water wanting to play more! We also saw tons of green sea turtles (the highlight was when a sea lion swam behind one pushing it around), lots of white-tipped reef sharks (and Shannon didn´t even freak out), starfish, penguins, many types of rays, and even some bombs that the U.S. army left behind. We saw all the different types of island habitats ranging from lava to forest to desert. It was the dry season so many of the islands looked dead as the trees and plants were dormant. It never rained on us so we had good luck! We also went to the highlands and saw the giant Galapagos tortoises. They are so big and gentle. They just eat, sleep, and lay in pools of water. We even saw some dolphins that followed our boat putting on a fabulous show complete with jumps and flips. Our last day we spent scuba diving at Gordon Rocks, the premier place to see hammerhead sharks. We were not supposed to go there as Shannon is terrified of sharks and did not want to swim with hammerheads but we had some trouble with the law and plans changed. Apparently there are only three diving agencies in Galapagos that have licenses to dive, they got these licenses by taking a course, the last of which was offered in 2002. The other agencies have business permits and usually there is no problem but sometimes the park authorities decide that only the three agencies with licenses can go out. This just happened to be one of those days. We left at 5:00 AM to try to avoid problems but got stopped at the park checkpoint and were told that we could not go and had to go back. We spent about three hours trying to get around this and finally took a bus which was not checked. The rangers were not smart and let the car with all the equipment through so we just met them at the boat and headed out. We had to go to a different location though. It was an amazing two dives! The visibility was pretty good and we saw tons of fish including huge schools of barracuda, mullets, yellow fin tuna, and of course hammerheads among other things. Shannon was so scared to see the sharks that she cried but after the first time was not quite as scared and even swam towards them (keeping plenty of other people in between her and the sharks of course). Kevin was really excited to see hammerheads and glad that he got to see lots of them. It was definitely a great experience and very different than any of the other dives we had done. All in all, it was an awesome trip and the highlight of our travels so far! Now off to see our friends Dan and Emily who were in Peace Corps with us and now live in Ecuador.

Cali

At first glance, Cali seemed like a big ugly city but once we explored a little it got better! We walked all around the first day and saw all the churches and old buildings. We also went to a giant mall to people watch. Supposedly the most beautiful women and the plastic surgery capital are in Cali but we saw neither. We did eat some yummy vegetarian food (there were a ton of vegetarian restaurants which made Shannon happy) and went to a zoo. The Cali zoo is supposedly the largest zoo in South America and it was cool. We saw a lot of different animals including a bird that kept landing on Kevin´s head and bit Shannon when she tried to get it off! We also took some salsa classes at our hotel. The first day was a little hard but the second day was definitely better and we learned a bit and had fun! We were sad that we didn´t get to meet up with our friend from Cali but she was busy with a project so next time. After Cali, we went to Pasto, a town near the Ecuador border. It was a lot larger and more modern than we had thought it would be. We walked around and saw the really cool churches and the next day headed to Túquerres to hike to Laguna Verde, a green lagoon in the crater of a volcano. Everyone in Pasto told us it was very easy to get to but those were lies, and we ended up hiring a very expensive taxi (even after Shannon´s mad bargaining skills) to take us up the mountain to the trail. The hike was a bit hard mainly because of the altitude. The highest point was about 4,000 meters (the highest Shannon had ever been). The walk back up from the laguna involved about a million stairs and a steep climb that nearly killed Shannon! The laguna was really pretty though, super green with lots of bubbles. We originally thought the volcano was extinct but it turned out to be active. It smelled strongly of sulfer and some of the bubbles going into the lake heated the water to a nice temperature. On our way down after walking forever, we finally caught a ride with a SUV going down. We stood on the back bumper and held on to the luggage racks...quite a ride! We then headed to Las Lajas to see the Santuario de Las Lajas. It is a church built into the side of a gorge with a river running under it. It is an amazing sight, just for the location alone and the church is impressive as well. We are pretty sure that we were the only ones staying in the entire town and finding dinner was hard since everything was closed! The next day we headed into Ecuador and had the easiest border crossing ever! We went to Otavalo, a small town about three hours from the border known for its Saturday market. We happened to arrive on a Saturday and we treated to the best/most impressive market we have ever seen! There were beautiful fruits and vegetables including real blackberries which we haven´t seen for two years! They also had tons of crafts and of course clothes and scarves made from Alpaca. It was really a sight especially with all the local people dressed in their traditional outfits! We are now in Quito and have been all over admiring the buildings and churches in the old town. Quito is a huge city and the highest capital in the western hemisphere with an elevation of 2,850 meters. Right now they are having a three day holiday so the city is rather dead. Tomorrow we head to Galápagos to see amazing animals!